Hamsili Pilav — Black Sea Anchovy Rice

Hamsili pilav wraps fragrant rice in a shining layer of Black Sea anchovies. It is one of the region’s most memorable combinations of sea, rice, herbs, and warm spice.

Serves 6 | Prep 35 minutes | Cook 40 minutes

INGREDIENTS

• 1 kg fresh anchovies, cleaned, boned, and butterflied

• 300 g short-grain rice, rinsed

• 1 large onion, finely diced

• 2 tbsp pine nuts

• 2 tbsp currants, soaked and drained

• 3 tbsp butter or olive oil, plus extra for the pan

• 450 ml hot water or light fish stock

• 1 tsp ground allspice

• ½ tsp black pepper

• ½ bunch dill, finely chopped

• Salt

METHOD

1. Heat the butter in a wide pan. Soften the onion, then add the pine nuts and cook until lightly golden.

2. Stir in the rice, currants, allspice, pepper, and salt. Add the hot water. Cover and cook gently for 10 minutes; the rice should still be slightly firm. Fold in the dill and cool briefly.

3. Heat the oven to 200°C / 400°F. Butter a 24 cm round baking dish. Arrange half the anchovies skin-side down, overlapping them across the base and up the sides.

4. Spoon in the rice and level it without pressing hard. Fold over the anchovies at the edge, then cover the top with the remaining fish, skin-side up.

5. Brush lightly with butter or olive oil. Bake for 25–30 minutes, until the anchovies are browned and the rice is tender. Rest 10 minutes before turning out or slicing in the dish.

AUTHENTICITY NOTE

A Black Sea classic, especially associated with Trabzon and Rize. The anchovies should form a nearly continuous shell around the rice; dill, currants, pine nuts, and allspice give the filling its characteristic festive aroma.